The Azores Islands, Portugal

40 Waterfalls... 0 tourists. We write about Hawaii, Tahiti, Bali, Bora Bora, the Maldives, and the Greek islands about as much as we can. Jaunt lovers adore these exotic island locales, but they also love reading our site to learn a bit about the secret gems of Europe, otherwise known as... the island chains less travelled. This brings us to enlighten our readers to... the Azores islands of Portugal!

The archipelago of the Azores, the closest point in Europe to New England, is made up of nine islands. Sapphire blue and emerald green lakes, fertile prairies, volcanic cones and craters, colorful hydrangeas and azaleas, 15th century churches and majestic manor houses, all make the Azores unlike anywhere else on earth. As a destination, the Azores have won numerous accolades: One of 10 Best Values, USA Today; Top 10 Places for Whale Watching, Sherman's Travel; Top 3 Places to See Foliage Outside of the US, Wall Street Journal and Top 10 Islands You Never Heard of from Budget Travel.

If you stand on the beach at Faja de Baixo and look out at the sea, there is nothing but water between you and the eastern coast of the United States. Behind you, 40 waterfalls cascade down soaring cliffs. It's hard to find a more enchanting place than Flores, and its tiny neighbor, Corvo. Together, they make up the Western Group of Azorean islands – over 150 miles from the Central Group.
Flores' landscape is quite different from the rest of the Azores, it feels younger, and windswept. It's western coast is a flat slice of land, called a Fajã, running from the cliffs of the mountain plateau to sharp black rocks and beaches along the Atlantic. Tiny towns, with white washed houses flow to the sea, and a dozen of waterfalls splash from the cliffs behind them. In this mild climate, there are cedar forests, tidal pools, and trails to climb to the waterfalls.

The central mountain plains are dotted with seven crater lakes, all easily accessible by foot or car. The landscape here is like a romantic English moor with lines of hydrangeas that follow the road's that rise fall with the green landscape. Sheep, goats and cattle graze amid the dark crater lakes, and rabbits dash back and forth among the brush.

The southern coast is home to the former whaling town of Lajes Das Flores, where the black ramp leading up to former whaling factory is still the best way to the rocky beach. Old tripots and whaling implements are on display at the factory, while nearby restaurants serve the fresh catch of the day with a 19th century church towering over the village.

Follow the ocean road north through cedar forest to the main town of Santa Cruz on the east coast to the small island of Corvo, shaped like a giant tear, floating 30 miles off the coast. It's 300 inhabitants live in the island's only town, Vila Novo do Corvo, a wild open place acesible by a 10-minute flight, ferry, or by tagging along on a local fishing boat. We say opt for the latter. Pleasant, white, and riding high black sea cliffs, Santa Cruz boasts most of the island's simple eateries, many run by fishermen and their families, as well as a whaling museum (with loads of New England artifacts and all sorts of bottles of whale oil). The town offers a few basic hotels, and plenty of activity in its ports.
Follow the road north along steep sea cliffs to the northern town of Ponta Delgada, with its lighthouse and open coast. From here, trials stretch back miles to the south coast, perfect for hiking. There is no access for cars and the landscape is green and wild. No village or sign of life can be found for miles, as the centuries old footpaths lead through waterfalls, and striking sea views back to the westernmost coast in Europe.

Where to Stay?

Most hotels are comfortable, affordable and near the sea, but two places stand out for authentic experience of what life on Flores is like.

Aldeia da Cuada

Cuada was a tiny village that saw it villagers emigrate for a better life decades ago. When Carlos and Teotonia Silva started to buy up the ruined houses, it was over grown, its ocean views no longer viable. Over two decades they bought and restored 15 of the towns' 17 houses (one is still in the hands of a family, the other is a chapel), and made them into simple one and two bedroom cottages. The Aldeia (or Village in Portuguese) has the feel of an ancient town, with its rough stone paths (no cars allowed) open fields, and stone houses all with kitchenette, and furnished in period antiques.

Prices are less than $100 per night and the town is connected by a new road, and ancient paths to the nearby towns Fajã Grande and Fajazinha. Views to the west are of the sea, and to the east of the waterfalls.
Aldeia da Cuada (H, B)
T: 351 292 590040
Fax: 351 292 590050
Email: aldeiacuada@mail.telepac.pt
Web: www.aldeiadacuada.com

Azores Express, a U.S.-based tour operator and member of the SATA Group, offers direct flights on wide body A310 aircraft to São Miguel, the main island in the Azores archipelago with connections to Flores. Connecting flights from São Miguel are also offered to Lisbon and the island of Madeira. Azores Express has connected New England with the Azores and mainland Portugal for more than 25 years. The carrier is part of the SATA Group, which connects the Azores, an autonomous region of Portugal, with the world.

For more information and reservations contact:

Azores Express
Tel: 800-762-9995
www.sata.pt

Azores Islands/Portugal's official tourist board site:

www.visitportugal.com and www.drtacores.pt

Cape Town, South Africa: 'The Nelly' aka. The Mount Nelson Hotel

Is that really? No... it couldn't be. I think I've found... The Gates of Heaven?
Or close. It's... The Nelly! Can a hotel's nickname get any better than that? Bono, Alicia Keys, Kate Moss... if they're gonna fly off on a jaunt to Cape Town, they say, 'Might as walk through the pearly white gates' (or rather, the fancy white columns). This is where they rest their weary heads: The Orient-Express' iconic Mount Nelson Hotel (also known as 'The Nelly'). Just check out that prime location with sweeping views of South Africa's famous Table Mountain.
South Africa... what can we say? It brought us Nelson Mandela and the hope for freedom, now realized. So we say, begin the day with a stroll through their gardens and you'll no longer need to imagine yourself 'Out of Africa' because, yes, you've arrived. Next, head to the renowned Librisa Spa for The African Wellbeing Experience beginning with a lavender soak and concluding with a vanilla and wild ginger massage. That should work up your appetite. We also recommend, for those who can (and can't) afford to stay the night, tea time with five different kinds of teas, tiny finger sandwiches, savory quiches, scones, cakes of every shape and size, and big bowls of strawberries, fruit salad and blueberries.
Prepare for a night of stars at the Mount Nelson’s Planet Champagne Bar where you can mingle with stylish Capetonians and other guests from across the globe while sipping exotic cocktails under a twinkling fiber optic Milky Way.

It won't come cheap, but we can tell you this much... you'll be hard pressed to find a better spot overlooking Table Mountain on the tip of this promising continent.

Room rates begin at $650/per night.

www.mountnelson.co.za or call 800-237-1236

Guatemala: Eco-Tours, Local Markets, & Luxury

Every Jauntophile knows... Guatemala is one of Latin America’s hidden gems. Sandwiched between Mexico and Belize in the north and El Salvador and Honduras in the south, the name itself means 'Land of Trees,' and this hot jungle country is every bit as green as it's name suggests. Poised somewhere between the old and the new, roughing it or Ritzing it, this Central American country combines the unique traditions of Mayan heritage with a urban landscape of bustling cities and lush resorts. Wildly beautiful with towering volcanoes, verdant rainforest, colonial architecture and fascinating beaches, fusing these elements together are the people, the majority descendants of the ancient Mayan. Warm and generous, their spirit is one of welcome. This Central American country is also one of the most indigenous in the world, now distanced from it's unstable 36-year civil war. The best part? In this down economy, you can still get an entire meal for $3.00!
This photo contains a piece of deer meat, Tepezquintle meat (this would be a noctural rodent highly prized for it's rich flavor), a piece of wild turkey, and... a piece of Armadillo! Don't worry, not all the food is this daunting.

So where to stay in this wild jungle paradise of woven ponchos and beaded bracelets? Below are a few places to rest your weary head, a homebase from which to take off and land. Ideally located in Guatemala City and Antigua, each hotel below is a destination unto itself, ideal for couples, business travelers, and families.

Guatemala City
Guatemala is the country’s cultural, political and economic capital. Founded on the site of the ancient Mayan city Kaminaljuyu, the city is renowned for its abundance of archeological sites and rich cultural history. Now with a population of more than 3 million, it is one of Latin America ’s most vibrant urban destinations.
Hotel Vista Real, a member of Preferred Hotels® & Resorts, is the city’s grande dame. Perched above the city in an exclusive residential enclave, the Hotel Vista Real welcomes guests into an oasis of service and style. This all-suite luxury hotel stands out for its elegant artwork and fine dining. Comprised of 123 suites and eight meeting rooms, the Hotel Vista Real is ideal for a weekend getaway or dazzling wedding.

Rates starting at $145
www.vistareal.com
Hotel Princess, a member of Sterling Hotels™, combines a great location in the bustling zona viva with a friendly staff for a reasonable price. Just off of one of the city’s main avenues, Hotel Princess’s 104 guest rooms encircle an inner courtyard that is a haven for business and leisure travelers. The perennially popular Garden Court restaurant and Clancy’s Bar are the perfect places to sample great food and local hospitality.

Rates starting at $129
www.hotelesprincess.com

Antigua
An hour from Guatemala City lies the captivating town of Antigua. Situated in the central highlands, La Antigua Guatemala (“The Old Guatemala”) was the country’s third capital and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In addition, if you're looking for a beach close to La Antigua Guatemala, a few hours away is the beach of Monterrico where chickens and pigs roam free. In fact, we've even heard they like to dip in the ocean. Talk about au natural. A range of backpacker pensions and 3 star hotels are also available, if you're interested in staying the night.
La Reunion, Antigua Golf Resort, a member of Preferred Boutique™, is the region's most exquisite hideaway. A sophisticated collection of 26 free-standing cottages, each with their own plunge pool, every suite has been tastefully appointed in colonial style. Nestled amid two volcanoes, La Reunion also offers golf on a memorable Pete Dye-designed course. Gourmet cuisine and numerous activities make La Reunion, Antigua Golf Resort the great destination for a complete couples getaway.

Rates starting at $225
www.preferredboutique.com or www.lareunion.com.gt
Porta Hotel Antigua, a member of Summit Hotels & Resorts™, is located in the heart of the city, an easy distance to explore Antigua’s cobblestone streets, colonial churches and monuments. With 115 guestrooms, the hotel is a lush oasis of soothing greenery. Encircled by trees, the pool area is a popular destination for cooling off after a busy morning of sightseeing or meetings.

Rates starting at $162
www.portahotels.com

Before you start booking your tickets, growing a beard, and thinking you can singlehandedly unite The Americas into one (a la our favorite renegade revolutionary, Che G.), don't forget to visit Lake Atitlan. Lake Atitlan is one of the country’s most prized scenic locations. The tourist friendly fishing town of Panajachel is a great place to take an eco-tour of the area or climb the Pacaya volcano for a glance inside its cone. We also hear that a bus about five kilometers away from Antigua to Pastores is a village known for handmade leather Cowboy Boots.

Here's a handy guide for Guatemala's Eco-Tours:

www.ecotourdirectory.com/ecotours/guatemala/
www.atitlanresource.com/travel_agencies_eco.htm
www.enjoyguatemala.com/tours.htm

In addition, a trip to Guatemala wouldn't be complete without a jaunt to the ruins of El Mirador and Tikal in the northern Petén region. The nearby city of Flores serves as the ideal base for any trips into Petén. In the village of Chichicastenango, the Thursday and Sunday market are the best ways to gain insight into Guatemala culture as indigenous groups come from around the country come to sell their handmade multi-colored goods. For hotels in Flores, we recommend checking out:

Flores Hotels
www.destination360.com/central-america/guatemala/flores-hotels.php

Oh, and for those of you with, how shall we say, more 'discerning tastes,' here's another list of swanky Guatemalan digs:

Guatemala's Ultra Luxury Hotels
www.kiwicollection.com/luxury-hotels/guatemala
We think Casa Palopo is one fine spot overlooking Lake Atitlan, set against a backdrop of three volcanoes, Tolimán, Atitlán and San Pedro.

A Vietnam Bargain: The Exotic Vodka Adventure

Usually, when we think vodka we'll be honest... we think of Ruskies (and forty year-old housewives), but this ultra-premium Vietnamese rice vodka quickly caught our staff's attention for another reason altogether. What does Vietnamese vodka have to do with vacations, you ask? Well, we're here to tell you. KAI Vodka, the world's only ultra-premium rice vodka handcrafted in Vietnam, has announced a special Vietnam travel package in conjunction with Pleasant Holidays.
So drink up! KAI, distilled in northern Vietnam from the rare and highly prized yellow blossom rice that grows only in the country’s Red River Delta, is the first product of its kind to be exported from Vietnam, while KAI Lychee is the only vodka to be infused with the sweet subtropical lychee fruit. The country’s 600-year history of making vodka only adds to KAI’s exotic mystique. Designed to give le vodka connoisseur the chance to experience and learn about its unique origin, we say... vodka with a cultural incentive? We're into that.
The KAI Exotic Vietnam Adventure (KEVA) is a custom packaged excursion that offers tours from 8-14 days including round-trip airfare, all transfers and tours, accommodations, and featured meals at KAI Vodka’s recommended culinary and nightlife destinations along the way with carefully selected Vietnamese translators and guides. You'll visit all the hot spots like Saigon, Hanoi, and Halong Bay allowing guests to experience the rich culture, vibrant towns, and phenomenal beauty.
The KEVA Eight Day Package includes:

· Round trip air from Los Angeles or San Francisco on Cathay Pacific
· Overnight accommodations
· Cruise of the Halong Bay
· Sightseeing in Hanoi and Saigon
· A blend of classic and contemporary excursions
· Select meals
· Transfers, gratuities, and taxes

Starting at only $2,649 per person - $3,575 per person for 14 days, it's also a real bargain.

KAI Vodka’s Managing Director Marcus Bender had this to say: “Vietnam has become one of the top 10 travel destinations according to Condé Nast Traveler and seduces visitors with its exotic mystique. A true fusion of eastern and western cultures lies at its heart, blending over 50 different ethnic groups, including Chinese and French influences. It is this rich and complex influence that is the essence of KAI Vodka."

Jaunt says: "True dat!"

LA-based Pleasant Holidays have developed the perfect Vietnam experience blending city and country, relaxation and adventure. Hiking, biking, kayaking, and select dinners of traditional and contemporary cuisine, as well as ‘must see’ tours of off-the-beaten-path adventures, are all included. They'll even advise travelers of restaurants, nightclubs, and adventures in each city.

So maybe it's time for Jaunt to get over it's 'only Ruskies and 40 year-old housewives drink vodka' thing, no?

That would be a 'Vâng.'

www.kaivodka.com

Four Seasons Seychelles: By the Sea Shore

Good news, lads and lassies! The Four Seasons Resort Seychelles has opened it's doors. Said to be a 'remote, hillside retreat that embraces the natural simplicity of treetop living,' this brand spankin' new property occupies an isolated position overlooking the idyllic bay of Petite Anse, just 30 minutes from the Mahé international airport. The Republic of Seychelles, East of Africa and North of Madagascar, is a tropical haven of 115 islands scattered across 530,000 square miles of the western Indian Ocean, an archipelago of 41 hilly, granite islands surrounded by low-lying coral islands. Covering a secluded area of 170 acres on the southwest coast of Mahé, the Four Seasons Seychelles consists of 67 villas and suites and 28 Four Seasons Private Residences that descend down a lush forested incline to the private, horseshoe beach of Petite Anse. Creole-inspired design complements the dramatic topography with granite boulders, steep jungle slopes and a shoreline indented with pirate coves. That's right... argghhh, who goes there, Matey? Back in the day, these waters were a favorite among the Jack Sparrows of the water world.
Four Seasons Seychelles Room

Get this... each of the 67 tree-house villas and suites is perched on stilts amid a jungle of coconut, mango, jackfruit and cinnamon trees. How disgustingly exotic is that? Standard features in all villas also include an infinity-edge plunge pool, open-air shower, glass-walled bathroom and expansive private outdoor living space with sunset views over the Indian Ocean or surrounding landscape. At the base of the Resort, black granite boulders, powder-white sand and tropical foliage combine with the azure blues of the sea and sky to create a vivid image of exotic island perfection. To keep you looking good and feeling good, there are also plenty of water sports, water trails and off-site activities like tennis, trekking, hiking, bird watching, mountain biking and paragliding. It's also a perfect paradise location for weddings, from a simple blessing on the private powder-white beach to a civil ceremony among the frangipani. Say it again after me... frangipani. Now isn't that fun?
Four Seasons Seychelles Exterior

The Resort’s main restaurant, ZEZ (Creole for a zither), offers a breakfast buffet of Continental and Asian dishes with a full American breakfast and speciality dishes available à la carte. Dinner takes on a Mediterranean air, featuring Portuguese, Spanish, Italian, Greek, Turkish and Lebanese dishes. The restaurant focuses on simple cuisine and deep flavours and offers a wide variety of fresh seafood, extra virgin olive oils, tapas, mezzes and speciality Arabic breads. An extensive wine list features 250 wine labels from the Old and New World since no vacay is complete without a lonnnngggg list of fine wines.

Oh, and their beach... one of the top ten beaches in the world. So stop complaining about the snow, the economy, your husband, and your weight and get lost in the Seychelles by the sea shore.

Rates from €1,000/night

www.fourseasons.com/seychelles/

Adventures in Bhutan: COMO's Uma Paro

Welcome back, kiddies! It's been a long holiday, but we're back from all the eggnog, champagne, latkes, holiday hams, and cakes to give you news on the one of the hottest locations for yogi starlets and young lovers… the always beautiful Bhutan.
The Terrace at COMO's Uma Paro

So, as sugar levels start to stabilize, the new year leaves us hungry for something invigorating, authentic, and meaningful. That leaves us with Uma Paro’s eleven Adventure Retreats that are sure to shake off the post-holiday blues. Expanding from the nine programs in its inaugural season last year, the series includes two new itineraries – A Multi-Activity Adventure (August 1-8) and Bhutan Through a Lens (November 21-28). In the former, thrill-seekers may choose from any or all of the following: whitewater rafting, fly fishing, a round of golf in the grounds of Trashi Choe fortress, an overnight camping trek, mountain biking, and a Bhutanese archery tournament while the latter has guests traversing the beautiful kingdom with camera in tow. Aspiring photographers could not ask for better subjects than the landscapes, prayer flags, monasteries, and villagers of the region; however, guests will want to save a few frames for the Uma Punakha lodge. This retreat will be the first to utilize COMO’s new 11-room lodge that’s complete with a restaurant and COMO Shambhala spa and is a five-hour’s drive from Uma Paro.
Bukhari Restaurant at COMO Uma Paro

Rates range from $3,280 - $6,112 for single occupancy to $5,292 to $10,054 for double, depending on the package selected. All rates include 7,10, or 12 nights accommodation at a combination of Uma Paro and other tourist standard hotels or camps previously set up for trekking adventures. Meals, excluding beverages, are included as well as picnics and mineral water on days out. Government taxes, royalties, visas, and entry permits are all arranged by Uma Paro in advance; these costs are factored into the published rates along with all transport within Bhutan.

Sign up now while there’s still space!

www.uma.como.bz/paro/default.asp?section=545

Maui, Hawaii: HST Windsurfing

Our crew of Jauntaholics is an adventurous bunch. We like to ride fast and feel the wind in our hair and our sails...

Which is exactly why we swear by the instructors at HST Windsurfing. A trip to Maui really isn't complete without a trip to Kanaha Beach to learn to windsurf or kiteboard. We've done both. As a result of our absolute adoration of water sports, we now contribute regularly to Kiteboarding Magazine.


To learn how to kiteboard, you'll need at least a week or two on the island so that you can get some good wind and take three or more lessons. The good news? All kiteboarding lessons are private and one-on-one with the first lesson running about 3 hours long, depending on conditions. Be sure to ask about their 3 day Learn to Kitesurf course. It's 9 hrs. over the course of about three days for only $599. That's what we did and thus began our addiction to wind. We won't lie... it's a costly hobby to learn, but once you do, you'll feel like Superman (or Wonder Woman) zipping through the Hawaiian skies to kite some sweet waves. Ask for Daniel, if he's available. A veritable Swedish stud with a firm eye on the waves and your safety, you'll be in good hands as the waves challenge your swimming skills.

If you have a little less time and a little less cash to spend, we also recommend trying your hand at windsurfing. The good thing about windsurfing is that you'll likely ride a wave your very first lesson. Our instructor, Jack, another foreign fox, is a great first time guide who will certainly make you come back for more.

WINDSURFING LESSON RATES

LEVEL 1 and LEVEL 2 LESSONS
All entry level equipment included
CLASS 2.5 HOURS, 2 or 3 students with 1 instructor $79 each person
2 class lessons, 5 hours $158
3 class lessons, 7.5 hours $229
4 class lessons, 10 hours $299

PRIVATE LESSONS 1.5 hours One-to-one. $105
Privates are recommended for Levels 3 and up.
Hire an instructor for the whole day $450
2 hrs private instruction with Matt Pritchard $250

KITESURFING LESSON RATES
All lessons are taught at lower Kanaha Beach Park and include all kite equipment, helmets, integrated impact vest/harness and water shoes.

Cost is $75/hr.

So have a Mai Tai, some lazy beach time in Wailea, grab a bite in Paia, and surf the great winds of Kanaha. If you don't, you'll simply have to admit to yourself... you're never going to know Maui like a local.

1-800-YOU-JIBE (968-5423)
www.hstwindsurfing.com

Part III: Palmyra's Ruins & The Aleppo Underground

Fresh from the press! Part III of Singapore-based Contributor, Hajar Ali's series on Syria.

When I left Damascus for Palmyra, I was told by the helpful doorman that traveling by bus was a comfortable, cheap alternative. I immediately grabbed a ticket.

Air-conditioned and, indeed, comfortable, the best part of the trip had to be the dates passed around in wooden boxes with mother-of-pearl inlay. If I remember correctly, they were also screening a Hindi movie.

Arriving in Palmyra, I’d stayed at a hotel highly recommended by Lonely Planet (The Cham Palace remains the closest to luxury accommodation available in Palmyra). There was a group of Italian tourists checking into the hotel at the same time and I spent a part of my first night in Palmyra in fear as I overheard two Italian ladies whispering in the hotel corridor.

My first introduction to giallo, a type of slasher horror flick typified by a developing background romance and spectacular sceneries of the Italian countryside, was Pupi Avati’s ‘Casa dalle finestre che ridono’, revolving around the creatively sadistic plots by two Italian sisters to entrap their latest torture victim. Hearing two female voices whispering in Italian brought to mind certain scenes of the movie.


The next morning (and evening) was spent touring the ruins of Palmyra where I encountered a guide who spoke, among other languages, Aramaic, a language spoken by Jesus and is still spoken in ‘isolated pockets of Syria’ in Ma’aloula. A veritable source of information on the ruins of Palmyra, he approached me while I was walking around near the entrance of the ruins. A morning (or evening) spent touring the ruins of Palmyra with him was well spent, never mind what the other guides tell you. I encountered another group of Italian tourists who’d asked their Italian-speaking guide to ask my English-speaking guide why I was travelling on my own. It was the same kind of concern the Italian ladies I’d met at the Lebanese-Syrian border and travelled around with in Syria had shown.
Palmyra, Syria

Why was I travelling alone? Wouldn’t it be better to travel with friends or parents? Well, sometimes, you just have to go it alone. Nights in Palmyra were uneventful, spent going through the tourist stores selling armor suits, old rings and porcelain pieces. The bus from Palmyra to Aleppo the next morning was nothing like the Damascus-Palmyra transfer. I took the bus with a few men - and goats - in an older bus with windows bearing a cobweb-like pattern from being hit by errant pebbles. We encountered little children on the journey practicing their shots by throwing little pebbles against the bus windows which, in retrospect, felt just a little like an earlier scene in the movie, Syriana, where an American lady travelling on a tourist bus was accidentally shot by a child practicing his shots on a rifle. I tried not to imagine these film recollections were ‘signs.’

Arriving in Aleppo, you’re immediately cognizant of a deep, rich history. A capital city that contests Damascus’ claim to being the ‘oldest continuously inhabited city in the world’ with a complex, intriguing history. Staying at the Baron Hotel (instantly recognizable by every local - particularly useful if you’re wont to getting lost), I was to spend my next few days in Aleppo exploring the citadel, locating an underground bar in the pedestrianized streets of Aleppo which the waiter insists was a way for the house’s original inhabitants to connect to the citadel during the multiple sieges laid on the city and experienced an authentic hammam session.
Underground Bar in Aleppo, Syria

Checking into the historic Hotel Baron, walking through the same hallowed hallways and reveling in its faded glamour, one can feel the cozy, family-like nature of the hotel management. From the receptionist to the waiter, who serves you breakfast every morning, everyone seems to have worked in that hotel for the longest time. I found my first room to be ‘too noisy’ , the second one which they’d suggested (and moved my bags to) ‘too creepy’ as it involved walking past an unlit hallway with unused furniture.

I was then shown another room- with a beautiful Juliet balcony lit by fairy lights. The balcony overlooks the busy main road, no doubt, but I figured by then that the hotel does have a road frontage and was won over by the balcony. I could see the brightly-lit stores across the street and the constant stream of alternately-honking traffic from my balcony.

Solitary moments in balconies with a view, even in cities I felt ill-at-ease (which Aleppo certainly was not!), make up some of my best memories in hotels I’d stayed in. My room at the Laleh Hotel in Tehran (what used to be the Intercontinental pre-1979) had a small balcony overlooking the garden and I spent, figuratively, my brightest moments on this balcony in a city I’d felt overwhelmed by.

The traffic on the streets of Aleppo must have ceased by a certain time as I was usually woken up in the mornings by the sound of birds near my heater grilles and the sound of traffic, increasing in both its frequency and loudness. My first day in Aleppo was spent with the Italian ladies, visiting Aleppo’s Citadel and capping off a visit accompanied by a most informative guide, with a chat with friends of the Italian ladies whom we’d met in the café opposite the citadel. We’d made an appointment (or rather, they made an appointment and I tagged along) to meet again that night at a friend’s house, which, the Italian ladies tell me, is beautiful, tasteful, and ‘like a museum.’

Stay tuned for Part IV of Hajar's Syrian escape...

St. Barth's Baby: The Hotel Guanahani & Spa

Nestled in the middle of the Caribbean Sea on a private 16-acre peninsula is just the piece of paradise you've been saving for. Catherine Zeta Jones, Paul McCartney, and P. Diddy... they're all big fans of this laidback, yet so chic it's elite, 8 mile island. With fourteen beaches, a year-round temperature of anywhere from 72 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit, and enough beautiful people to fill several clubs in NY and LA, St. Barths is simply one of those 'Places To Go Before You Die.'
Hotel Guanahani Aerial View

Jaunt Magazine's hot hotel pick for honeymooners, the jet-set, and loaded families alike is The Hotel Guanahani & Spa, a charming, luxurious paradise with the only full-service spa on the island. Set amid lush tropical gardens in between two white sand beaches; one facing a reef-protected lagoon, the other facing the Atlantic ocean, Guanahani's 68 rooms are all in bungalows facing the sea. Hollah! Or, to be a bit more hoity-toity (after all, we are talking about St. Barth's) we say, "Bon Jour, Bebe!"
Hotel Guanahani Butler Suite

For the truly exclusive, try out the Butler Suites, each with a private pool, large dining area, and sun terraces with full views of the sea. All rooms are fashioned in modern Creole style - rare dark woods and pastel shades. Pampering is one of our most popular pastimes so that means, unwinding at the full service Clarins Spa and getting coiffed at Frederic Fekkai's onsite full-service salon.

Since we're also fans of more adventurous pursuits, we love their full range of land and sea activities including boat rentals, kite surfing, water sports and tennis. Hungry too? Not a problem, the superb global cuisine is overseen by world traveled, French Chef Philippe Masseglia, at the Guanahani's restaurants, Le Bartolomeo, and L'Indigo. The Hotel Guanahani & Spa is also known for catering to families and couples, providing both Kindergarten and Junior’s programs free of charge, offering couples with kids a welcome respite in an idyllic setting on a coconut grove.
Hotel Guanahani Garden Suite

Room rates range from:
$462 to $7,327
360€ to 5,700€

www.leguanahani.com

Pst... a little fairy also told us about two other hot spots not to be missed:

Le Ti, located in Pointe Milou, where you can eat and party with a different theme every night of the week. On Mondays, you can feel like you're in two places at once... St. Barth's and Marrakesh with their 'Marrakesh Party.' On Tuesday night, the theme? 'Night Fever' and the dress code is appropriately 'wigs and color.' The owner, Carole, even goes retro on Wednesdays for the notorious Plastic Boots Party. Expect to dance on some tables. In a very Euro chic kind of way, of course.
Reservations are recommended: 05 90 27 97 71 or info@ksplaces.com

Maya's is another local dining favorite. Elegant, yet beautifully understated, the menu boasts all the fresh fish and Creole cooking you can handle in a delicious and 'uncluttered' fashion.
www.st-barths.com/mayas

So, if you've got the dollah bills or the Euros, this is how you ought to be spending it, nay?

We say, "Oui."

Part II: The Sweet & Spicy Souks of Syria

Part II of our newest Contributor, Singapore-based, Hajar Ali's series, continues to give us a taste of the Middle East with her take on Syria's sweet and spicy souks.


A trip to the Souk Hammadiyeh isn’t complete without a trip to Bakdash, an ice cream store that’s virtually an institution in Damascus. It’s the place for family get-togethers, couples going on dates as well as a celebratory venue for engagement parties.



Bakdash sells only one type of ice-cream, a delicious white concoction with a generous coverage of pistachio.

The souks were a maze of stores and my disoriented mind was unable to distinguish between the various souks. I recall travelling through various aromas of soaps and spices, staying with the Italian ladies as they negotiated over the silver jewellery, going through stacks of table linens and deciding which jallabiyas to buy for female friends and family members back home. In reality, the souks were divided into the Souk Al Hamidiyeh, the most prominent and most popular amongst tourists, the Souk Midhat Pasha, the Souk al-Bzouriyeh (as the area where the soaps and spices are to be found) and the Souk al-Harir. It’s probably best to enlist the help of a good guide who’d be able to bring you to Ghraoui, the manufacturers of the best dried fruits and chocolates in the world, if Paris Salon du Chocolat Awards are anything to go by...

www.ghraouichocolate.com

Tony Stephan’s antiques store at No 156 is also renowned for having the finest quality at the best prices. With a range of textiles, mother-of-pearl inlaid furniture, antique Bedouin jewellery, and intricate copper and brassware visitors have included dignitaries like Jimmy Carter and Nancy Kissinger. In addition, check out the ultra-chic Villa Moda, a boutique converted from a 17th century stable, stocking labels like Stella Mc Cartney and Azzedine Alaia.

The street food on Syria was amazing- a welcome departure from the mezze I’d been having for breakfast, lunch and dinner so far in Syria. Once, we’d stopped by a street stall to buy something resembling falafels and the store keeper had in turn plied us with slices of hot thin-crust pizza (so good we’d asked for the name, of which I can’t remember now) and vehemently refused our attempts to pay for the pizza. Travelling is one activity where you’d always gain more from your interaction with locals, the other travelers you meet along the way and the richness of experiences than what you’d be able to give in return, but Syria is one of the places where the feeling of taking more than what you give gets rather overwhelming.

Two days later, I temporarily parted ways with my travel companions- they were headed to the Krak des Chevaliers and I, having fallen under the spell of Zenobia, the Warrior Queen, was headed for Palmyra. We’d arranged to meet in Aleppo, staying at the Hotel Baron, which we’d all agreed would be an interesting choice of accommodation given the history behind it.

Hotel Baron, was, in its heyday, host to some of the most illustrious individuals of its time. Stepping off from the Istanbul-Aleppo train connection (which still runs today), were individuals like Agatha Christie, T.E. Lawrence and Charles Lindburgh...

A fascinating jaunt into the past... and a welcome embrace to the future.

To be continued...

Part I: The Road From Lebanon to Syria

Souk al Hammadiyeh
Damascus, Syria

Say hello to our newest Contributor, Singapore-based, Hajar Ali, the founder of Urbane Nomads (www.urbanenomads.com), a niche travel agency that seeks to deliver the most unique travel experiences, whether in localities yet to be discovered or favored tourist destinations. Urbane Nomads actively promotes new, exciting design, taking an active interest in the culture and history of the area with intelligent tours that aim to go ‘under the skin’ of the place.

Two years ago, I spent more time than scheduled in Lebanon, experiencing a relatively sedate New Year’s Celebration in Beirut, affected both by the somber political mood in the wake of Hariri’s assassination, a sullen economy, and an increased hostility towards neighboring Syria. I’d crossed overland to Damascus via the Lebanese-Syrian border a few days after the New Year.

Over my next few days in Syria, the UN commission investigating the assassination of Hariri would seek out an interview of Syrian president Bashar al-Assad, its foreign minister Farouk al-Sharaa and former Syrian vice-president Abdul Halim-Khaddam in connection with Hariri’s assassination. Spilling over from a pro-Hariri demonstration I’d witnessed in Beirut, there were increasing calls for Syrian troops to move out of Lebanon. By the end of my stay in Syria, I witnessed the mobilization of Syrian soldiers and the increased prominence of UN vehicles on the streets of Damascus.

In contrast to Beirut’s landscaped sidewalks, clean streets and fresh, clean air, the streets of Damascus felt chaotic, the air dank and it was all too apparent I had crossed over to another country. The taxi driver couldn’t seem to find my hostel and after what seemed like an hour on Damascus’ chaotic streets, I’d changed my mind about staying in a hostel. I’d thought of Damascus’ boutique hotel installation, Beit Al-Mamlouka, but didn’t want to risk confusing the driver again so I went with Cham Palace Damascus, an indigenous chain of luxury hotels that I thought would be instantly recognizable.

That seemed to be the right call when I found myself comfortably ensconced in the lobby of Cham Palace within the next twenty minutes. Checking into the hotel was an instruction in Syria’s artisanal culture. Everything from the lobby to swivel chairs and the lift were decorated with an elaborate inlay of mother of pearl and ivory characteristic of Syrian decorative style. The Lebanese designer Nada Debs (www.nadadebs.com) had found international acclaim incorporating the decorative mother of pearl and ivory inlays within the more contemporary medium of Lucite as opposed to the traditional wood-inlay combination.

www.chamhotels.com/palace_damascus.html

In the lobby, I met two Italian ladies who had smiled kindly at me at the Lebanese-Syrian border while we were awaiting our entry visas. One of them invited me to join them to visit the Omayyad Mosque and Souk Hammadiyeh later in the afternoon. I was glad for the company and help navigating around the city. I have an awful sense of direction, completely unable to make sense of a map and anyway, have always thought it more useful to ask locals or long-time residents for directions rather than go around with a huge map in hand.

We were headed for Souk Hammadiyeh, but not before stopping by Omayyad Mosque. The legends and mythology surrounding Omayyad Mosque are fascinating. Muslim tradition believes that the severed head of John the Baptist is contained in a silver capsule in the prayer hall with an alternative theory being that it is the Knights Templar that has possession of this severed head. The tomb of Salah ad-Din, or Saladin to Crusaders, is located within the compounds of this mosque. The eastern minaret, or the minaret al-Issa, is believed to be the place where Prophet Issa (Jesus PBUH) will descend, on the wings of two angels, during a time of crisis to lead believers in their battle against the Antichrist.
(c) Martin Gray
The architecture of the Omayyad Mosque, like most mosques, derives solely from geographic shapes, complimented by high ceilings, providing an almost zen tranquility to the space. Various architectural elements are telling of the various influences on this mosque - the open courtyard, a place you might want to spend some time during dusk for its beautiful atmosphere (and excellent photographic opportunities), has been attributed to the influences of Yemeni temples as well as a pre-Islamic Kaa’ba (today the centre of the Islamic pilgrimage, or hajj) and the ‘accentuation of the main nave’ was seen as a direct influence of Omayyad architecture. (source: Muslimheritage.com)

Walking down to the nearby souks, one encounters everything from delicious candies - the Syrians apparently take their sweets very seriously if the proliferation of sweet shops on the streets of Damascus are anything to go by - and dried fruits, soaps, jallabiyas (loose female clothing) and the most attractive blown glass art abound. Olga, one of the two Italian ladies who kindly invited me along, remarked: ‘The Venetians learned the art of glass blowing from the Syrians’. I was tempted to get the water jars, with a beautifully prismatic colour pattern retailing at a price that most of you reading this would have dismissed as ‘nothing, but I was afraid it wouldn’t survive the journey, given the multiple road transfers I was planning on...

Stay tuned for Part II of Hajar's Middle East jaunt!

Cambodia: From Phnom Penh to Siem Reap

Angkor Wat Temple, Cambodia

Part II of Jaunt Contributor, Victoria Yanakos', trip to South East Asia has landed her at the top of one of the world's most popular temple destinations... Angkor Wat. Now, if she could only figure out how to get down.

Fear of Heights
By Victoria Yanakos

Turns out I'm afraid of heights. Well, not so much "heights" as the falling very fast from them. I realized this about half way up the 70 or so "steps" to the top of one of the Angkor Wat temples.

It seemed like a good tactic for getting away from mobs of Japanese tour groups and their incessant picture taking (of which my climb - in a skirt- is now part of at least a few albums). Now at the top, apparently unmoved by my mid-way epiphany, I have a whole new perspective of the situation. I'm actually much higher than I realized, and the "steps" are only about 6" deep and covered in sand. This wasn't a problem going up, but add gravity and flip flops and the descent feels much less safe. So here I sit, writing a journal, reflecting on Cambodia, and slowing devising a plan to get down...

Even in comparison to other parts of SE Asia, Cambodia has an irrationality that is wholly its own. Tuk-Tuk (rickshaw) from the bus station to hostel, $3. Tuk-Tuk for the whole day? $5. Thousands of people trying to sell me pineapple, no one able to sell me bug spray. Whiskey Sour is a vodka drink. Happy Pizza is a drug (pot). "Local specialty" on the menu: tarantula. No safety regulations for anything (hence why I am now stuck at the top of one of the temples).

For a country that has endured such devastation, oppression, torture, and is in a perpetual quest for genuine rebirth, it is no wonder that things in Cambodia may feel a little off. But the people are warm and laid back and the country beautiful, even amid the lingering scars of war.
Phnom Penh, Cambodia

PHNOM PENH PENSIONS/HOSTELS

OKAY Guesthouse
#3BE, R# 258, S/K Chaktomuk, Khan Daun Penh, Phnom Penh
okay.2001@hotmail.com
Tel: 855-12 300 804
Clean, very helpful staff, predictable hot water (for Cambodia budget lodging this is saying a lot!)
$5-$15

Sunday Guesthouse
Tel: 211623
97PH 141
Very helpful, friendly English speaking staff, good deal for the price
$5-$17

PHNOM PENH RESTAURANTS, SHOPS, ETC.

Camory Cookie Boutique
#167 Sisowath Quay
sales@camoryfoods.com
www.camoryfoods.com
Amazing cookies! Proceeds go to Cambodian orphanages

Amara Spa
Corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 110
spa@hotelcara.com
Great drinks and cafe outside, posh spa inside

Chow
At the Quay along Sisowath
www.chowcambodia.com
Chic bar, modern vibe, smokers welcome

Kmer Saravan
No. 16Eo, St Sotheraros (3)
vuthy_vann@yahoo.com
Best Kmer food I've had! Try the curry dishes and banana flower salad - wonderful!

Happy Herb Pizza
#345 St Preah Sisowath
Tel: 023 362 349
It is pretty much exactly what it sounds like. Make sure to specify if you want your pizza Not Happy, Happy, or Very Happy.

SIEM REAP HOTELS (the town serving Angkor Wat Temples)
FCC Hotel, Siem Reap
If you're looking to splurge:

The FCC properties in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh are design-driven and luxurious.
www.fcccambodia.com

The Hotel De La Paix
The perfect place to indulge in a weekend of decadence or even just a mixed drink at the sexy bar downstairs.
http://www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com/index.php
$330 - $750/night


For budget-conscious digs:

Shadow of Angkor Guesthouse
Tel: 964774
353 Pokambor Ave
shadowofangkor@hotmail.com
This is where I stayed. A great location overlooking the river

Or check out these websites for more guesthouse/backpacking suggestions:

www.canbypublications.com
www.travelfish.org

THINGS TO DO - SIEM REAP

Le Tigre De Papier Cooking School
letigredepapier@hotmail.com
Bar St
Courses $12
A great way to get in touch with the culture, courses include a trip to the market

Kmer Kitchen Restaurant
The Alley
Tel 964154
Visited by Mick Jagger and with one of the best pumpkin coconut soups on the globe, this place should definitely be part of your visit to Siem Reap

Of course, while in Siem Reap, the main attraction is the Temple of Angkor Wat. They sell 1-day, 3-day and 1 week passes. Don't bother with a tour, hire a tuk-tuk for about $10-$15 a day, buy a book, and go at your own pace.

Next stop... well, when I was originally writing this, it was "land" but now? Looks like it's Hong Kong, baby.