Tokyo, Japan: Sightseeing & The City

This week, Guest Blogger and Jaunt Contributor, Adam Fuller, takes us to Japan where picked up his belongings and went on a whim to live in a foreign land with little more than a travel book and a hankering to learn about the culture. In this installment on his Tokyo series, he gives us a hint of the local sights. A graduate of the Arizona State University with a degree in Journalism, he’s currently in Santiago, Chile writing for The Santiago Times. Where does he get his great love of travel? “I spent significant chunks of childhood living in countries throughout Africa (Mali, Sudan, Chad and Rwanda) and studied in Spain and Japan. Foreign culture is a way of life, as well as a passion.”

TOKYO SIGHTSEEING
SENSOJI TEMPLE: ASAKUSA
Wandering the narrow, sometimes dark, sometimes lantern lit, sometimes neon lit streets in Asakusa you realize you are officially in Japan. Asakusa was the center of Tokyo a few decades back, now giving way to the more modern and trendy areas like Shinjuku and Shibuya, but still maintaining its traditional and charming character. It hosts a great selection of restaurants and plenty of places to buy souvenirs.

KAPPABASHI STREET
Known as 'Kitchenware' street, is full of stores selling traditional Japanese bowls, sake glasses, and chopsticks. It's also the street that sells fake food displays that restaurants use in their front windows so foreigners who can’t read the menu know what they’re getting into – truly funny gifts. The vendors lining the walkway to Sensoji Temple (while very crowded) have lots of cool stuff to take home. The streets and alleyways in the Asakusa area have shops for almost anything – kimonos, swords, trinkets, clothing, food, electronics…the list goes on. The dollar stores in Japan (hyaku-yen: 100yen) are also clutch sources of cool, cheap, “authentic” gifts. Great for your Uncle Leo who’d never know the difference anyway.

UENO PARK
Located right next to the Ueno train station is huge, pretty, and packed with about 300 stalls selling fish, vegetables, bags, shoes, watches, clothes, you name it. Museums, a zoo, street performers, concert hall, merry-go-round, and a baseball diamond where local recreational teams and friends playing for “fun” – the players take it very seriously and the result is hilarious. It’s gorgeous when the cherry blossoms (Sakura) are out – usually the last couple weeks in March. If you shop here, you can also save some money.

SHINJUKU GYOEN NATIONAL GARDEN
Large, serene park and garden – a very Japanese experience. The Shinjuku area is also a very popular place for shopping, bars, restaurants, nightlife.

Stay tuned for next week's picks for where to shop in Tokyo!

Tokyo, Japan: Hip Hotels and Sweet Deals

This week, Guest Blogger and Jaunt Contributor, Adam Fuller, takes us to Tokyo where he picked up his belongings to live in a foreign land with little more than a travel book and a hankering to learn about the culture. Where does he get his great love of travel? “I spent significant chunks of childhood living in countries throughout Africa (Mali, Sudan, Chad and Rwanda) and studied in Spain and Japan. Foreign culture is a way of life, as well as a passion.”

I left for Japan in March 2007 to teach English in Koga, Ibaraki – a small town an hour and a half north of Tokyo. I knew no Japanese (except for domo arigato Mr. Roboto), bought a travel book (that I never read) and got on the plane just looking for a change. Why Japan? Why not? It was easy to find a good paying teaching job, I’d never been before and figured Japan’s about as big a change as you could get. I had no idea what I was getting into.

The transition and adjustment to such a different way of life was pretty tough. It’s a very regulated and restrained society with a surplus of rules, both spoken and unspoken. Seats are assigned at movie theaters, looking people in the eye is sometimes disrespectful, and etiquette often takes priority over logic. There’s a lot of work, very little relaxation and “the system” tends to make things (of any nature) take a while to get done. On the other hand, Japan is incredibly safe, virtually crime-free and clean. The subways and trains are spotless and ALWAYS on time. The crowded streets are remarkably quiet and the people are polite, helpful and once they open up to you, they’re some of the kindest people you’ll ever meet.
I left Japan a year later, proficient in basic Japanese, with a Japanese girlfriend (who speaks NO English and was the main motivation for me to become proficient in Japanese), and a love and appreciation for one of the most unique and strangely appealing countries I’ve ever been to.

It’s obviously impossible to experience all aspects of Japanese culture on a vacation. However, a nice two week trip is enough to have fun, get a good feel for the country and get back home before going crazy from culture shock. Here are some helpful tips on where - and how - to stay.

TOKYO HOTELS

THE CAPSULE HOTEL
Ikebukuro Plaza

Claustrophobics need not apply.
2-12-3 Ikebukuro Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Near JR line Ikebukuro Station in the Ikebukuro area of Tokyo
Phone: 03-3590-7770
Price: 3,500 yen/night ($35) includes your own sleeping capsule which:




• Is a bit longer than a coffin and tall enough for you to sit up and crawl around in.
• Contains a futon mattress, alarm clock, radio, TV, small reading light, pillow and blanket.
• Is arranged with other capsules in rows, stacked two-high in the sleeping rooms on each floor of the hotel.
• Your own locker in an adjacent room on the same floor as your capsule.
• Bathroom (sinks and toilets) on the same floor as your capsule and locker.
• Access to the public bath/shower/spa/sauna located on the bottom floor of the hotel – very relaxing and refreshing.
• Your own kimono for the night

Pros: A cool, very unique Japanese experience. Clean and quiet, it’s cheap, convenient, fast check-in, and no curfew. They’ll even accept guests as space permits. I checked in at 11:30pm with no reservations and no hassles. Located in the center of Ikebukuro, one of Tokyo’s most popular, fun and vibrant areas. It’s initially weird when you walk into the overpopulated, dark and humming sleeping room of your floor, but once you’ve crawled into your capsule and shut the curtain, you’re off to slumberland. Only in Japan can you be stacked among hundreds of people and still feel alone.

Cons: The front desk speak very little English, female guests are not permitted. Some capsule hotels have women-only floors and take female guests, however many others (like the one I stayed) don’t. These restrictions are definitely something to keep in mind and inquire about when searching for hotels in Japan. I’ve found that it's usually the cheaper places such as capsule hotels and hostels that have this Men Only policy.

Not much space, but if you have to have a big area to stretch out in:
• You shouldn’t be in Japan
• You shouldn’t be at a capsule hotel in Japan

Don’t be surprised that you must take off your shoes and put them in a locker in the lobby before you enter the hotel. From then on it’s all socks and slippers. Get used to taking your shoes off upon entering most semi-traditional/traditional indoor places in Japan – it’s a sign of respect.

Here’s a good listing of capsule hotels in Tokyo: http://gojapan.about.com/cs/accommodation/a/tokyocapsule1.htm

ASAKUSA CENTRAL HOTEL
1-5-3 Asakusa, Taitou-ku, Tokyo
Asakusa area of Tokyo – see website for map/access
Phone: 81-3-3847-2222
Email: ach@pelican.co.jp
www.pelican.co.jp/asakusacentralhotel/eng/index.html
This was the first place I stayed when I arrived in Japan and it was perfect - especially since my company was paying the tab for all us new hires. It’s a nice hotel in a great location. The Asakusa area is one of the most popular locations for tourists and locals. It’s comfortable and convenient, no curfews, quiet comfortable rooms, friendly front desk staff that speak enough English to answer any questions and ensure a pleasant stay.

Single rooms start at 9,135 yen/night ($90) includes: dorm-sized hotel room with your basic hotel amenities (twin bed, desk, chair, TV, closet, phone, private bathroom/shower, room cleaning), internet modems are available and there’s wireless access in the lobby. Access to public bath/shower/spa/sauna (men only).

CONRAD HOTEL TOKYO
1-9-1 Higashi-Shimbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo, 105-7337
Phone: 03/6388-8000
Housed in the Shiodome Building, this 222 room hotel houses four restaurants, 2 Gordon Ramsay, China Blue, Kazahana for Japanese fare, and a swanky bar and lounge called TwentyEight. Accents of dark oak with space age style. Japanese lighting with blue and green hues, motorized blinds, dual sinks, rain shower heads, an indoor pool, and plasma screen TV’s, bring modern East meets West flair.

www.tokyo.conradmeetings.com

MANDARIN ORIENTAL - TOKYO
What many consider the ‘tops’ when it comes to swanky digs and superb service, the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo has floor to ceiling windows and views overlooking the Imperial Palace garden to the West and Tokyo Bay to the Southeast. The opulent hotel’s location has direct subway access via Mitsukoshi-mae Station on the Ginza line to all major points of the city. Tokyo Station, the world-renowned Ginza shopping district, and the Tokyo Stock Exchange are all within 5-10 minutes walking distance. Creating a distinctive ‘Sense of place’ is a core guiding principle of the Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo, located in Nihonbashi, the centre of the city formerly known as Edo. Japanese designer Reiko Sudo utilized the idea of‘ Woods and Water’ to form the underlying design construct.

www.mandarinoriental.com/tokyo

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL TOKYO AT MARUNOUCHI
1-11-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku
Phone. 800/332-3442
Japan: 03/5222-7222
Next to Tokyo Station, this property is intimate and convenience at it’s best, providing a small enclave away from the Tokyo madness.

www.fourseasons.com/marunouchi

IMPERIAL HOTEL
1-1, Uchisaiwai-cho 1-chome
Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-8558
Reservations: 81-3-3504-1251
This hotel came in at #22 out of the 50 Asian Hotels in T+L’s latest World’s Best Awards. T+L tends to play it safe, but here’s what you’ll find here. Over 12 different places to dine, all French, Japanese, and Chinese. So, if you want to spend $400/night on a conventional-looking, yet modern with conveniences room, this is a good spot.

From around $422/night - 45,150 yen

www.imperialhotel.co.jp

HOTEL NEW OTANI
4-1 Kioi-cho, Chiyuda-ku, Tokyo (see website for map/access)
Phone: 81-3-3265-1111

Snazzy, Luxurious, upscale digs, it has a stunning 400-year-old Japanese garden that once belonged to a feudal lord on 10 acres with waterfalls, ponds, latticed bridges, and bamboo groves. Everything is brand new and it’s a beautiful hotel in a great area. Way out of my league as I haven’t actually stayed here, but I had friends visiting who did and they loved it. When the Boston Red Sox and Oakland A’s came to Japan for the 2008 MLB season opener, this is where they stayed – big league baby!

Rates start at $360 - 36,005 yen

www.newotani.co.jp/en/tokyo/index.html

HOTEL SOFITEL
2-1-48 Ikenohata in Ueno
Tel. 800/221-4542
Japan: 03/5685-7111

This might be Tokyo's most unique-looking hotel built to look like five trapezoids stacked on top of each other. A boutique hotel with only four rooms on each floor it’s a secret stunner with views of Shinobazu Pond. Not in the most happening area, but decent and reasonably priced for a night or two.

HOTEL OKURA
2-10-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku
Tel. 800/223-6800
Japan: 03/3582-0111
www.okura.com/tokyo

A classic, this hotel has refined atmosphere with rooms overlooking a small garden. Located across from the U.S. embassy, it’s always attracted U.S. dignitaries and celebrities, including the Henry Kissinger, Rolling Stones, and David Bowie.
www.okura.com/tokyo

PARK HOTEL TOKYO
Shiodome Media Tower
1-7-1 Higashi-Shimbashi
Minatoku
Tokyo 105-7227
Japan
Some of the best rooms in town. Sleek, chic, a member of Design Hotels, they even have a salon that uses more than 30 different varieties of 100% natural essential oils from Florame, a French company known as an expert in organic essential oils. They also offer something really unique. Constance Spry, a flower school that also serves the royal family. Responsible for national ceremonies, it’s the English authority with the longest history in flower arrangement. Ginza shopping district can be reached within 10 minutes walk and rooms are decorated with Moniques Le Houelleur’s natural artwork and features color coordinated curtains and bedcovers. Bathroom amenities include the THANN Aromatic Wood collection.

Rates from $161-$420/night

www.parkhoteltokyo.com

PARK HYATT TOKYO
3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
Tel. 800/233-1234 in the U.S.
Japan: 03/5322-1234
Made famous by Lost in Translation celebrity, it’s one of the most stunning hotels in Japan. Rooms are large, views are incredible and food is known as being among the best in Japan. Not to be missed: the 66-ft. indoor pool on the 47th floor with views of Tokyo.

www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com

RYOKAN SHIGETSU
1-31-11 Asakusa
Tel. 03/3843-2345
Considered a modern, Japanese style Inn, Ryokan Shigetsu is in a great location in historic Asakusa, it’s right next to the famous Sensoji Temple. Moderately priced, old world meets new world with natural woods and artwork. Japanese inns often have you sleeping on a futon, but if you don’t want to do that, stay in one of Shigetsu's Western-style rooms. Frommer’s says not to pass up the public bath with views of the five-story pagoda.

FUJIYA HOTEL IN HAKONE
Tel. 0460/2-2211
Outside of Tokyo, this spot is great for a romantic getaway and considered one of Japan’s ‘most majestic’ properties. Established in 1878, it’s Japanese and Western architecture and romance at it’s best with a landscaped garden for moonlit walks.

Things to keep in mind when looking for a hotel:
Many hotels in Japan (especially the more traditional ones) have curfews and lock the front doors at a certain time each night. If you’re like me and are more inclined to grip-it and rip-it, finding a cheap place to sleep on the fly isn’t very difficult in the bigger cities (Tokyo, Yokohama, Osaka), but if you end up in smaller cities and towns along the way don’t be surprised if you end up paying about 6,000yen/night ($60).

AKASAKA PRINCE HOTEL
Designed by Kenzo Tange, this 700 room plus hotel also features an impressive 13 restaurants. Only in Japan.

1-2, Kioi-cho
Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 102-8585
Phone: 81-3-3234-1111
www.princejapan.com


As you can see, Tokyo is chock-full of hotels so, if you don't see anything you like above, here is a great Japanese website with plenty of photos, along with another list of hotels that may also be up your alley.

www.japanguidebook.com





More Recommended Hotels:
Shinagawa Prince Hotel 

Royal Park Shiodome Hotel 

Shiba Park Hotel 

Dai Ichi Inn Ikebukuro 

Shinjuku Prince Hotel 

Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel 


Stay tuned for next week where we'll uncover what to see and where to shop in Tokyo!

Maui, Hawaii: Surfing Goat Dairy

Sure, Hawaii is best known for it’s beaches and surf culture, but little do most people know that after a long day windsurfing Maui’s Kanaha Beach, you can take a short trip to Kula to sample some of the best goat cheese on the Hawaiian islands. They say, "Da Feta Mo Betta" which, in Hawaiian slang means, "Better than Feta." We agree. That's why we're recommending a light lunch and a milking tour at Surfing Goat Dairy on the slopes of Haleakala crater. I'm tellin' you now... there's no better way to remedy that depression than some honest goat milking. I milked them with my husband and, of course, he was a natural. The kid's will love it too.
Owned and operated by German expatriates Thomas and Eva Kafsack, Surfing Goat Dairy represents one of only two goat dairies in the state located on 42 acres with almost two-thirds dedicated as pasture, giving the Dairy's three bucks and over than eighty does plenty of space to roam. Surfing Goat Dairy houses over 25 different varieties of cheese and soaps and they’re also organic so that means… no hormones, antibiotics, pesticides, herbicides, preservatives, or colors.
Winner of 16 National Awards including “Best Goat Cheese spread in North America 2004, 2005 & 2006, you can chose from Daily Tours, Evening Chores & Milking Tours ($12/pp), or Grand Tours ($25/pp), a 2-hour experience where you can feed and milk a goat, see the cheese making process, and sample most of the cheeses produced at the Dairy.

www.surfinggoatdairy.com

Surfing Goat is served at top restaurants and hotels on the island and beyond including:

THE ARIZONA BILTMORE HOTEL, Phoenix
FAIRMONT KEA LANI HOTEL, Wailea*
FOUR SEASONS RESORT, Wailea*
GRAND WAILEA HOTEL, Wailea*
HALEKULANI HOTEL, Honolulu
HOTEL HANA, Hana*
HYATT REGENCY RESORT, Kaanapali*
PIONEER INN, Lahaina*
RENAISSANCE WAILEA BEACH RESORT, Wailea*
RITZ CARLTON HOTEL, Kapalua*
NAPILI KAI BEACH RESORT, Napili*
SHERATON MAUI, Kaanapali*
THE PENINSULA BEVERLY HILLS, California
THE WESTIN MAUI, Kaanapali*
WAILEA MARRIOTT RESORT, Wailea*

Maui, Hawaii: HST Windsurfing

Our crew of Jauntaholics is an adventurous bunch. We like to ride fast and feel the wind in our hair and our sails...

Which is exactly why we swear by the instructors at HST Windsurfing. A trip to Maui really isn't complete without a trip to Kanaha Beach to learn to windsurf or kiteboard. We've done both. As a result of our absolute adoration of water sports, we now contribute regularly to Kiteboarding Magazine.


To learn how to kiteboard, you'll need at least a week or two on the island so that you can get some good wind and take three or more lessons. The good news? All kiteboarding lessons are private and one-on-one with the first lesson running about 3 hours long, depending on conditions. Be sure to ask about their 3 day Learn to Kitesurf course. It's 9 hrs. over the course of about three days for only $599. That's what we did and thus began our addiction to wind. We won't lie... it's a costly hobby to learn, but once you do, you'll feel like Superman (or Wonder Woman) zipping through the Hawaiian skies to kite some sweet waves. Ask for Daniel, if he's available. A veritable Swedish stud with a firm eye on the waves and your safety, you'll be in good hands as the waves challenge your swimming skills.

If you have a little less time and a little less cash to spend, we also recommend trying your hand at windsurfing. The good thing about windsurfing is that you'll likely ride a wave your very first lesson. Our instructor, Jack, another foreign fox, is a great first time guide who will certainly make you come back for more.

WINDSURFING LESSON RATES

LEVEL 1 and LEVEL 2 LESSONS
All entry level equipment included
CLASS 2.5 HOURS, 2 or 3 students with 1 instructor $79 each person
2 class lessons, 5 hours $158
3 class lessons, 7.5 hours $229
4 class lessons, 10 hours $299

PRIVATE LESSONS 1.5 hours One-to-one. $105
Privates are recommended for Levels 3 and up.
Hire an instructor for the whole day $450
2 hrs private instruction with Matt Pritchard $250

KITESURFING LESSON RATES
All lessons are taught at lower Kanaha Beach Park and include all kite equipment, helmets, integrated impact vest/harness and water shoes.

Cost is $75/hr.

So have a Mai Tai, some lazy beach time in Wailea, grab a bite in Paia, and surf the great winds of Kanaha. If you don't, you'll simply have to admit to yourself... you're never going to know Maui like a local.

1-800-YOU-JIBE (968-5423)
www.hstwindsurfing.com

Maui, Hawaii: An Insider's Restaurant Guide

Every summer as a child, my family would escape the blistering heat of Arizona to vacation in the Hawaiian Islands. A little R&R and the yearly Western Trial Lawyers Convention brought us to the laid-back tropical paradise of pineapple plantations and sugarcane fields. The summers defined my youth and fostered an island spirit within. Years later, it would do the same to my parents. They picked up and moved to Maui. As a tribute to the islands that I know and love, Jaunt Magazine will be running a special series on where to eat, stay, and shop in Maui and beyond.

First up: Your Restaurant Cheat Sheet, Maui Style.
NICK'S FISHMARKET
Fairmont Kea Lani Resort
4100 Wailea Alanui Dr
Kihei, HI 96753
(808) 879-7224
www.tristarrestaurants.com
First and foremost, we love the Fairmont Kea Lani. It just might be our favorite hotel on the island. An all-white Moroccan inspired design, enormous suites, and home to a restaurant with some of the freshest and widest selection of fish on the island, what's not to love? The food at Nick's continues to live up to it's excellent reputation. A perfect spot to dine with couples or your significant other/spouse, you may walk away spending $200 or more for a couple dining with wine, but it's well worth it.



SANSEI
Kihei Town Center
1881 South Kihei Road #KT-116
Kihei, Hawaii 96753
www.sanseihawaii.com
(808) 879-0004




Believe it or not, much to our chagrin, there isn't much sushi on the island. Sansei is the best, hand's down. Using unique twists like Ginger Lime Butter and Cilantro Pesto, they're even on par with some of LA's top sushi spots. If you don't mind waiting in a long ass line for about 45 minutes before they open at 5pm on Mondays, you can even get half-off.
KIMO'S
845 Front Street
Lahaina, Maui
(808) 661-4811
www.kimosmaui.com
Fish and chips, their famous burger, a seared ahi appetizer... it's another classic Maui staple right on Lahaina's waterfront. PS. They've also got adorable soft cotton tee-shirts on sale right now. Worth feeling like a lame tourist when you slip it on and look like a sexy surfer girl.
BUBBA GUMP'S
889 Front Street
Lahaina, HI 96761
(808) 661-3111


Yes, it's a chain. We know. The things we love most about Bubba Gump's in Maui are the following: The buckets of Cajun Shrimp and it's sweet location on Lahaina's waterfront. End of story.

CAFE MAMBO
30 Baldwin Avenue
Paia, Maui 96779
(808) 579-8021
www.cafemambomaui.com
Three words. Hot Chicken Salad. Two more. Duck Salad. Four more. Maui Burger & Beer Combo. This is my family's favorite healthy lunch spot after a nice workout, day of shopping, or windsurfing in Kanaha. You can get two of the best salads on the island (if not two of your favorite salads in the US), and you'll be waited on by smiling girls from the mainland or Waylon, our favorite cook in the kitchen.

MAMA'S FISH HOUSE
799 Poho Pl
Paia, HI 96779
(808) 579-9764
www.mamasfishhouse.com
No, it's not a steal, but it, too, is a classic. My husband and I even shared an appetizer and an entree - it was plenty of food for the likes of our little Euro bellies. So, if you're not a typical American who eats their entire enormous plate of food, Mama's might not break the bank. The place for another romantic dining experience.
SAIGON CAFE
1792 Main St
Wailuku, HI 96793
(808) 243-9560
The best - and most authentic - Vietnamese food on the island is tucked in a small corner of Wailuku. You just might miss it if you're not a local. This is a great place to stop before you fly home for a quick bite if you're staying in Wailea or Lahaina. Ask for Wing Wing (or Nguyan Nguyan). Friends (like the Revis') call him Chicken Wing. He'll make you laugh, he'll make you cry. Every dish on the menu is fresh and excellent.
DA KITCHEN
425 Koloa Street
Kahului, Maui
(808) 871-7782
Only five minutes from Kahului Airport, Da Kitchen is in a mini-mall near most of the windsurfing and kiteboarding shops of Kanaha Beach. Serving up traditional Hawaiian food like lomi (salted salmon chopped with tomatoes and onion), lau lau, Kalua pork, chicken long rice, poi and plate lunches with teriyaki chicken, Korean Kobe ribs, hamburger steak cutlets or fish tempura (served with rice and macaroni salad), prices are as low as $6.00-$8.00 and 2-3 people could easily eat one meal.

Next up: The best digs on the island to rest your weary head.

Part III: Palmyra's Ruins & The Aleppo Underground

Fresh from the press! Part III of Singapore-based Contributor, Hajar Ali's series on Syria.

When I left Damascus for Palmyra, I was told by the helpful doorman that traveling by bus was a comfortable, cheap alternative. I immediately grabbed a ticket.

Air-conditioned and, indeed, comfortable, the best part of the trip had to be the dates passed around in wooden boxes with mother-of-pearl inlay. If I remember correctly, they were also screening a Hindi movie.

Arriving in Palmyra, I’d stayed at a hotel highly recommended by Lonely Planet (The Cham Palace remains the closest to luxury accommodation available in Palmyra). There was a group of Italian tourists checking into the hotel at the same time and I spent a part of my first night in Palmyra in fear as I overheard two Italian ladies whispering in the hotel corridor.

My first introduction to giallo, a type of slasher horror flick typified by a developing background romance and spectacular sceneries of the Italian countryside, was Pupi Avati’s ‘Casa dalle finestre che ridono’, revolving around the creatively sadistic plots by two Italian sisters to entrap their latest torture victim. Hearing two female voices whispering in Italian brought to mind certain scenes of the movie.


The next morning (and evening) was spent touring the ruins of Palmyra where I encountered a guide who spoke, among other languages, Aramaic, a language spoken by Jesus and is still spoken in ‘isolated pockets of Syria’ in Ma’aloula. A veritable source of information on the ruins of Palmyra, he approached me while I was walking around near the entrance of the ruins. A morning (or evening) spent touring the ruins of Palmyra with him was well spent, never mind what the other guides tell you. I encountered another group of Italian tourists who’d asked their Italian-speaking guide to ask my English-speaking guide why I was travelling on my own. It was the same kind of concern the Italian ladies I’d met at the Lebanese-Syrian border and travelled around with in Syria had shown.
Palmyra, Syria

Why was I travelling alone? Wouldn’t it be better to travel with friends or parents? Well, sometimes, you just have to go it alone. Nights in Palmyra were uneventful, spent going through the tourist stores selling armor suits, old rings and porcelain pieces. The bus from Palmyra to Aleppo the next morning was nothing like the Damascus-Palmyra transfer. I took the bus with a few men - and goats - in an older bus with windows bearing a cobweb-like pattern from being hit by errant pebbles. We encountered little children on the journey practicing their shots by throwing little pebbles against the bus windows which, in retrospect, felt just a little like an earlier scene in the movie, Syriana, where an American lady travelling on a tourist bus was accidentally shot by a child practicing his shots on a rifle. I tried not to imagine these film recollections were ‘signs.’

Arriving in Aleppo, you’re immediately cognizant of a deep, rich history. A capital city that contests Damascus’ claim to being the ‘oldest continuously inhabited city in the world’ with a complex, intriguing history. Staying at the Baron Hotel (instantly recognizable by every local - particularly useful if you’re wont to getting lost), I was to spend my next few days in Aleppo exploring the citadel, locating an underground bar in the pedestrianized streets of Aleppo which the waiter insists was a way for the house’s original inhabitants to connect to the citadel during the multiple sieges laid on the city and experienced an authentic hammam session.
Underground Bar in Aleppo, Syria

Checking into the historic Hotel Baron, walking through the same hallowed hallways and reveling in its faded glamour, one can feel the cozy, family-like nature of the hotel management. From the receptionist to the waiter, who serves you breakfast every morning, everyone seems to have worked in that hotel for the longest time. I found my first room to be ‘too noisy’ , the second one which they’d suggested (and moved my bags to) ‘too creepy’ as it involved walking past an unlit hallway with unused furniture.

I was then shown another room- with a beautiful Juliet balcony lit by fairy lights. The balcony overlooks the busy main road, no doubt, but I figured by then that the hotel does have a road frontage and was won over by the balcony. I could see the brightly-lit stores across the street and the constant stream of alternately-honking traffic from my balcony.

Solitary moments in balconies with a view, even in cities I felt ill-at-ease (which Aleppo certainly was not!), make up some of my best memories in hotels I’d stayed in. My room at the Laleh Hotel in Tehran (what used to be the Intercontinental pre-1979) had a small balcony overlooking the garden and I spent, figuratively, my brightest moments on this balcony in a city I’d felt overwhelmed by.

The traffic on the streets of Aleppo must have ceased by a certain time as I was usually woken up in the mornings by the sound of birds near my heater grilles and the sound of traffic, increasing in both its frequency and loudness. My first day in Aleppo was spent with the Italian ladies, visiting Aleppo’s Citadel and capping off a visit accompanied by a most informative guide, with a chat with friends of the Italian ladies whom we’d met in the café opposite the citadel. We’d made an appointment (or rather, they made an appointment and I tagged along) to meet again that night at a friend’s house, which, the Italian ladies tell me, is beautiful, tasteful, and ‘like a museum.’

Stay tuned for Part IV of Hajar's Syrian escape...

Loreto Bay, Mexico - Spa and Yoga Retreat

Step out from the protective shade of a thickly thatched palapa, greet the day with a sun salutation, and feel the warm rays carry over majestic mountains as they dance upon the glistening waves.

Say Namaste to Loreto Bay in Baja Sur, Mexico, the UNESCO World Heritage Site located on the western shore of the Sea of Cortez and home to The Mission of Our Lady of Loreto, the first of the California missions and the 300-year-old jewel of Loreto.

Imagine if Cabo was still the blush on the peach. This is Loreto Bay. No group of fanny-pack wearing tourists slamming shots, no waiting an hour in line for Customs. Here, you can do yoga, take in serenity, do a little whale watching, kayaking, snorkeling, scuba diving, and even explore some local cave paintings.

Accommodations are available in a variety of full-service hotels, charming inns, and privately-owned one- and two-bedroom condominium residences.

Conveniently positioned between the Sierra de la Giganta mountains, The Loreto Bay Resort, a 8,000-acre community, neighbors the quiet fishing town of Loreto and offers its newest escape: a three-night spa and yoga package introducing guests to the quieter side of Baja.
So check out three nights of luxurious guest room accommodations at the Inn at Loreto Bay; a full meal of healthy offerings, multiple yoga sessions with a certified instructor; one facial and reflexology treatment; a full one-hour massage; a choice of one manicure or pedicure with foot or hand therapy; one back and neck massage; and other relaxation services. And did we also mention... the resort is eco-friendly?
Alaska Airlines also announced an increase in scheduled service from Los Angeles to Loreto. The new scheduled service will double the number of seats flown into the destination on a weekly basis beginning November 9, 2008 via two flights (Sundays and Thursdays) with 144-passenger, 737-400 equipment, and two additional 70-passenger flights on Tuesdays and Fridays operated by Horizon Air.

$880/per person
Based on double occupancy and valid for travel now through December 20, 2008

Vaya con Gurus.

www.discoverloretobay.com
www.gotoloreto.com
Tel: 1-877-522-9466

St. Barth's Baby: The Hotel Guanahani & Spa

Nestled in the middle of the Caribbean Sea on a private 16-acre peninsula is just the piece of paradise you've been saving for. Catherine Zeta Jones, Paul McCartney, and P. Diddy... they're all big fans of this laidback, yet so chic it's elite, 8 mile island. With fourteen beaches, a year-round temperature of anywhere from 72 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit, and enough beautiful people to fill several clubs in NY and LA, St. Barths is simply one of those 'Places To Go Before You Die.'
Hotel Guanahani Aerial View

Jaunt Magazine's hot hotel pick for honeymooners, the jet-set, and loaded families alike is The Hotel Guanahani & Spa, a charming, luxurious paradise with the only full-service spa on the island. Set amid lush tropical gardens in between two white sand beaches; one facing a reef-protected lagoon, the other facing the Atlantic ocean, Guanahani's 68 rooms are all in bungalows facing the sea. Hollah! Or, to be a bit more hoity-toity (after all, we are talking about St. Barth's) we say, "Bon Jour, Bebe!"
Hotel Guanahani Butler Suite

For the truly exclusive, try out the Butler Suites, each with a private pool, large dining area, and sun terraces with full views of the sea. All rooms are fashioned in modern Creole style - rare dark woods and pastel shades. Pampering is one of our most popular pastimes so that means, unwinding at the full service Clarins Spa and getting coiffed at Frederic Fekkai's onsite full-service salon.

Since we're also fans of more adventurous pursuits, we love their full range of land and sea activities including boat rentals, kite surfing, water sports and tennis. Hungry too? Not a problem, the superb global cuisine is overseen by world traveled, French Chef Philippe Masseglia, at the Guanahani's restaurants, Le Bartolomeo, and L'Indigo. The Hotel Guanahani & Spa is also known for catering to families and couples, providing both Kindergarten and Junior’s programs free of charge, offering couples with kids a welcome respite in an idyllic setting on a coconut grove.
Hotel Guanahani Garden Suite

Room rates range from:
$462 to $7,327
360€ to 5,700€

www.leguanahani.com

Pst... a little fairy also told us about two other hot spots not to be missed:

Le Ti, located in Pointe Milou, where you can eat and party with a different theme every night of the week. On Mondays, you can feel like you're in two places at once... St. Barth's and Marrakesh with their 'Marrakesh Party.' On Tuesday night, the theme? 'Night Fever' and the dress code is appropriately 'wigs and color.' The owner, Carole, even goes retro on Wednesdays for the notorious Plastic Boots Party. Expect to dance on some tables. In a very Euro chic kind of way, of course.
Reservations are recommended: 05 90 27 97 71 or info@ksplaces.com

Maya's is another local dining favorite. Elegant, yet beautifully understated, the menu boasts all the fresh fish and Creole cooking you can handle in a delicious and 'uncluttered' fashion.
www.st-barths.com/mayas

So, if you've got the dollah bills or the Euros, this is how you ought to be spending it, nay?

We say, "Oui."

Aromatic Journeys: Awaken Your Senses

AQUA CANCUN
Stroll past two sparkling white Rolls Royce Phantoms through the sliding glass doors into paradise. Inlakesh. That’s how the staff of this ultra-chic Cancun resort greets you. In Mayan it means, “We are different faces of each other.” And this is what it means to ‘Feel AQUA.’ At peace and one with the environment. From the custom aromatic oils pumped throughout the hotel to Watsu treatments, Ashtanga Yoga, Regional Cooking Classes and your choice of two superb restaurants, Siete and MB, home to James Beard Winner, Michelle Bernstein’s stellar boite...

This certainly ain’t your parents run-of-the-mill Cancun resort. Think the W’s modish elegance meets Ritz-Carlton’s flawless service. Fans include the likes of Paris Hilton, Kim Cattrall, and… me. When they say awaken your senses, they truly mean it. Right down to a nightly choice, delivered straight to your room, of six aromatic oils blended specifically for the hotel.

www.feel-aqua.com

FOUR SEASONS RESORT MAUI at WAILEA
Intoxicating, sensual, and unique. Just like you. Sure, anyone who’s anyone knows about the Four Seasons Resort Maui, but do they also know about their brand-spankin’ new demi-blending scent analysis? Through a discussion with your mélanger, along with an in-depth computerized test, personalized perfume sessions target elements of your personality and aspects of your health that directly affect the scents - and senses - you’re drawn to. Ajne Rare & Precious, the expert all-natural and organic essential oil perfumerie out of Carmel, California, is run by husband and wife duo, Jane Hendler and Rex Rombach, and Handler personally trains each mélanger at the Four Seasons Resort Maui to guide you during your prêt-à-porter fragrance consultation.
Hendler is one of the few accredited Certified Master Essential Oil Therapists in the nation and has been called the 'Star Perfumer' by US Weekly. Some of her clients have included Jessica Biel, Reese Witherspoon, Alanis Morrisette and Rob Lowe. In addition to owning their own lavender farm in Carmel Valley, Jane and Rex work with small growers from around the world to obtain the organic and sustainably-harvested fruit, flower, leaf, grass, wood, lichen, fungi and spice oils that Jane transforms into parfum, lotions and skin care preparations in her Carmel laboratory boutique. Hand-blending each formula to a customer’s specific needs, Handler also developed a signature scent for Four Seasons Resort Maui, Palena`ole, available at the Spa’s retail.

Custom blend and consultation from $250

www.fourseasons.com/maui/

So bring the sweet smell of vacation home with you.
OJAI VALLEY INN
Feel like a guided aromatic meditation? Might we recommend a personal aromatherapy session with Renate, the on-site Artist-in-Residence, at the Ojai Valley Inn's Artist Cottage and Apothecary? This German beauty will guide your senses through a holistic journey of self-discovery in a variety of media, whether it’s pottery, painting, drawing, wreath-making, or, my personal favorite, scent. Allow for time alone or share the experience with your family and friends. I had the pleasure of being guided through an afternoon of aromatic self-discovery with my husband - who just happened to develop my current favorite anointment he lovingly called ‘Orchard Floor.' It was the perfect experience to end a perfect birthday weekend. Each scent is composed of essential therapeutic oils which you can also introduce into lotions, gels and creams that will carry your own name. Also worth mentioning... The Personal Mandala class, another Signature Ojai Experience, recommended at times of transition or when seeking clarity. Quiet and introspective, with insightful feedback from your instructor, these sessions reveal a deeper meaning to what lies on the paper.

From $150

www.ojairesort.com